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Our 1957 Chevys leave a lot to be desired when it comes to monitoring engine function. The temperature gauge does not show exact degrees, and the oil and volts are just "idiot" lights. Hanging aftermarket gauges under the dash for improved monitoring is just not that clean, and drilling holes in the dash for gauges is less than desirable and is usually just ugly. Here is the answer for cleaning up gauge installation; a custom molded gauge pod that bolts in place of the speaker grille on top of the dash. The gauge allows the installation of three 2-116" gauges. You can buy the pod by itself or with three Auto Meter oil, water, and volt gauges. The pod is made of molded ABS and can be painted to match the color of your dash.
3 Hours
Image 1: The original speaker grille is held to the dash with four studs and nuts. To access the four nuts, the radio must be removed. The front speaker can no longer be used if the gauge is going to be installed.
Image 2: The custom gauge pod (PIN 06-264) is made of molded ABS and is designed to hold three 2-116" gauges. The pod arrives in black and can be painted to match the color of the dash.
Image 3: We are installing kit (PIN 06-265) which includes a voltmeter, temperature gauge, and oil gauge. The gauges in this kit are all electric and have aluminum faces with black needles. Kits with other gauge colors are available. Each gauge includes a mounting bracket and hardware, a light bulb and socket, and a red and green boot to install over the light bulb for a different look if you wish.
Image 4: The gauges are held in place with round retainers on the back side of the pod. There are two separated washers and two thumb screws that hold the retainer to the back of the gauge.
Image 5: A colored boot can be installed over the bulb for a different look; or just use the clear bulb. With all of the gauges mounted, the light sockets can be installed.
Image 6: Each light socket has a black and white wire. The black wire is for ground, and the white wire is for power. Tie all three black wires together and connect to a good body ground. Tie all three white wires together and connect them to one of the gray wires in the dash harness.
Image 7: There are three male spade terminals on the back of the gauge. One connects to a body ground, one to an ignition on 12-volt source, and the other to the appropriate sender. Connect all of the ground terminals together and connect to a good body ground.
Image 8: Connect all of the 12-volt terminals together and connect them to a good fused 12-volt ignition on source.
Image 9: Connect the remaining sender terminals on the gauges to the appropriate sender source. On the voltmeter, this terminal may be connected to the 12-volt ignition on source. On the temperature gauge, this terminal connects to the supplied temperature sender. This sender has an 18" thread with various adapters and should be installed in the intake manifold or cylinder head. The original green wire in the dash harness may be used, or a new wire can be run to the temperature sender. For the oil gauge, this terminal connects to the supplied oil sender. The original blue wire in the dash harness may be used, or a new wire can be run to the oil sender.
Image 10: With all the wires connected to the gauges, senders, and dash harness, a couple of wire ties should be used to keep the wires in place and neaten up the under dash area.
Image 11: There is a tab at the front of the pod that keys into the dash and holds the front of the pod in place. At the rear of the pod, there are two holes. These holes will line up with the factory holes in the dash where the speaker grille was attached. The gauge pod is supplied with two new chrome screws and clips. The new gauges look fantastic in the pod, and when the pod is dash color, it looks like it belongs! In addition to great looks, you will now be able to monitor your engine functions and not depend on the "idiot" lights. (Feb. 2008)